Good Morning Vietnam!!

For the past 10 days we have been traveling around Viet Nam and Cambodia, and now it's time to chronicle the adventures here on the blog. To begin our journey we flew from Bangkok, Thailand to Hanoi, Vietnam (Hà Nội in Vietnamese). This part of the trip was a bit of an adventure in itself. In Bangkok they have just completed the construction of the new international airport. Named Suvarnabhumi, it is an amazing building. The terminal is the largest building in the world, and the air traffic control tower is the tallest as well. As you can see from the pictures they really spared no expense on the construction of this behemoth facility.

All the doors are etched with this Thai warrior.

Inside the main terminal and the air traffic control tower.

Some of the art in the airport is amazing, and very Thai.

After walking for what seemed like days, we finally arrived at our gate, and boarded our Air Asia flight to Hà Nội. The flight was rather quick, lasting just under two hours. And before we knew it we had arrived. The first thing that struck us as we left the airport, was how different the weather was. Where Bangkok was hot and humid, Hà Nội was cool and comfortable. While at the airport we exchanged our money for Vietnamese Dong, which instantly made us millionaires! Too bad a million Dong is roughly only about $65.

Two million Dong.

We zoomed in from the airport, and soon arrived in the Old Quarter of Hà Nội where we met up with two of our friends from Bangkok, Gwen and John.

After checking into our hotel, went to have a little late night dinner before everything closed down for the night. One of the things that is a little strange at first, is that everything in Hà Nội closes at midnight or before. The police arrive on the streets in force to yell at anyone loitering around after that time, not at the westerners however.

The next morning what we awoke to was a beautiful colonial city. Hà Nội, originally built by the French, still maintains much of the European architecture. As is Paris, Hà Nội has an abundance of extremely narrow buildings. In the days of colonialism the French would tax a building according to how wide it was. This gave rise to really narrow, deep and tall buildings. The roads that wind their way through this city also bring up pictures of a European city. Along these skinny winding streets zooms the ever present motorbike. The sheer number of motorbikes in Hà Nội is mind boggling. Believe me this makes for an adventure when crossing the street. We learned very quickly that when crossing the street there is only one way to make it. You don't wait for an opening, or you'll be there all day. You don't try to make a mad dash for it, or you'll be in the hospital or worse. The way to cross one of these motorcycle laden streets is to just start crossing. Walking slowly and methodically, you cross the street. This slow pace gives all the motorcycle riders time to gauge how best to get around you. So you end up crossing the street with motorbikes zooming past on every side. Quite adventurous really.

We spent four wonderful days in Hà Nội before departing for Hue (this and the rest of the trip will follow in additional posts). What follows are the pictures of Hà Nội and of the various sights. Remember to see a bigger image just click on the thumbnail.

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Some of the architecture around the Old Quarter.

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Various Sights from around Hà Nội

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Communist Propaganda

All around Hà Nội you will see the tell tale signs of the Communist government. The most prominent being the proto-typical propaganda posters.

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Ho Chi Minh

(Chinese: 胡志明; May 19, 1890 – September 2, 1969) was a Vietnamese revolutionary and statesman, who later became Prime Minister (1946–1955) and President (1955–1969) of North Vietnam.

He was originally named Nguyễn Sinh Cung. He was also known as Nguyễn Tất Thành (阮必成: 'Nguyễn will accomplish'), Nguyễn Ái Quốc (阮愛國: 'Nguyễn the patriot'), Lý Thụy (李瑞) and Hồ Quang (among others), and is popularly called Bác Hồ ('Uncle Hồ') in Vietnam. The name Hồ Chí Minh means "he who enlightens." He is most famous for being the founder of the Viet Minh independence movement in 1941 and establishing Communist control in part of Vietnam in the 1950s.

I'm sure it will come as no surprise that the Vietnamese have almost deified Uncle Ho. Just like Lenin and Mao, so too is there a mausoleum for Ho Chi Minh. We were not able to see him, because he is traveling at the moment, and I'm not joking. Every year he travels to Moscow for some special spa time, let's face it time marches on even after your dead.

Presidential Palace

Mausoleum with Ceremonial Guard

The Home of Ho Chi Minh

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Thang Long Water Puppets

Puppetry is a traditional art form closely connected with the long-standing spiritual life of the Vietnamese people. There are many kinds of puppet-shows in all the corner of the country. Puppets of different kinds can be found all over the country. However, puppetry art has been developed and diversified as well as popularized mostly in northern midland areas and the plains in Vietnam. The word "roi" (puppetry) has become part of the proper name applied to villages, to pagodas and even to ponds found in many places. (Puppetry villages at Y Yen, Nam Dinh Province; puppetry pagodas at Phu Xuyen, Ha Tay province...)

Since early times, "robe-climbing and puppetry" have been forms of entertainment and have attracted lots of people. Public love, here and there, was expressed through Vietnamese folk songs, idioms, and literature...In old days, puppetry was closely linked to the tradition and customs of Vietnam. Dong An village festival (Hung Yen province) re-performed the myth of "Dung, Da" by two big puppets. (These two big puppets were made of bamboo, had paper faces and colorful clothes). The villagers carried them around the village and showed their great happiness. This kind of puppets was found in Ba Chua Muoi Temple Festival (Queen of Salt Festival). Its face was made of bamboo, its body was made of poles and its march-clothes were made of sails. All parts of Ly Than Tong Statue (Ha Tay province) and Linh Lang Statue (Ha Cau Temple, Hai Phong Province) were carved separately and were put together with joints so that they could move like string-puppets. There were many puppets standing over night in the fields in order to threaten mice and birds harmful to crops. On Mid-July, Vietnamese people often burn joss stick and paper items for lost souls. On Mid-Autumn Festival (Ram), adults buy toy-puppets for children. Dragon dances, Lion dances, the dance of Four Magical Animals, Land God dances are attractive amusement of festivals in ethnic minorities. There have been many bird-disguised dances connected with "Animal religion" such as peacock dances (Black Thai ethnic minorities), Phoenix dances, Gru bird dances (Ede ethnic minorities), and Dove dances (Cao Lan ethnic minorities). " Puppet-statues" found in worshipping of La Chi and Lo Lo people. Bana ethnic minorities have many puppetry shows in funeral festivals in order to satisfy not only themselves but also the lost souls. In "puppetry family", there has been "mask dances" at Xuan Pha (Thanh Hoa province). Khmer people (from South Vietnam) have their own mask stage called Robam Tuong.

I would encourage everyone who visits Hanoi to visit the water puppet theater, but be aware...make sure to take some antihistamines before hand if you have any mold allergies. I had no idea about this, and almost immediately upon entering the theater my allergies when into chaos. I started sneezing like a crazy person. My sinuses were in overdrive, and my eyes were watering like crazy. I was actually forced to leave and was not able to enjoy the show. However, Jan was able to stay and he took the following pictures.

Another in a line of firsts...

Two weeks ago we were in the middle of a military coup, certainly not something your average American experiences everyday. Now we're getting ready for another first...Typhoon Xangsane. Xangsane has already paid a visit to the people of the Philippines, and is now heading Southwest towards Vietnam and Thailand. The Thai Ministry of Weather (yes it's real, and they do some bizzare things to try to 'control' the weather here) has issued heavy rain and high wind warning for the country. So I guess we'll get to experience everything that Southeast Asia has to offer during our fouray here.

In Memoriam

The following posting really has nothing to do with Thailand, or Bangkok; save for the fact that if we were not in Thailand the end result would have probably never happened.

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Loosing a cherished pet is never easy. We come to regard them as part of our family. We learn to recognize their moods; when they're happy and when they're sad. It makes it doubly difficult when they're so young and full of energy. This past week we discovered, with much sadness, that our cat Pupek was most likely killed by coyotes. Being 7,000 miles away has certainly not helped. I know he was just a cat, but he was part of our family. He was a silly, crazy cat. He loved running around chasing every imaginary thing he could think of. He was also one of the most loving cat. He loved his family, and missed us when we were not around. Is it irrational to have emotions of grief and sadness over the death of an animal? Well I say it is, and if other's don't agree tough cookies. Pupek was an integral part of our little family and now he's gone. Throughout our lives I'm sure we'll have other cats and dogs, but Pupek was the first. He will always be remembered.

Treat me kindly, dear master. Accord me the courtesy due to a cat — and I for my part will love you, amuse you and cheer your heart as only a cat can do.

Give me a sunny spot to sleep in when morning dawns and I will warm your lap on cold evenings.

Respect my independence and my need to walk alone at times and I will look after myself, so that you may come and go as you please.

Speak to me in our secret kitty language, let me hear my name sung in the music of your voice, and I will meow happily in sweet harmony with you.

Stroke my fur gently and lovingly and I will soothe you with the soft purrs that can only come from a happy cat.

Indulge my curiosity and I will show you the joys of bird watching, star gazing and other kitty pleasures.

Play with me and see me rejoice! Toss a humble ball of yarn and I will delight you with my cleverness and acrobatic leaps.

But do not laugh at me or allow me to be teased for there is nothing I prize more than my dignity.

Keep my surroundings neat and clean and I will be fastidious in my habits.

Feed me and be fair and I will teach you how to tell "kitty time" by instinct and tummy tunes.

And when I am old and the time comes to say farewell, hold me gently in your arms and I will go without a whimper.

For with you I am trusting, safe and secure. A cat who walked alone but loved you with a full and happy heart.

Absent Thai general spelled trouble

By Thomas Fuller International Herald Tribune
Published: September 21, 2006

BANGKOK The first signs of trouble Tuesday emerged when Thaksin Shinawatra, who was still Thailand's leader, called an early-morning teleconference with the country's top army general.

The general did not show up.

"Sonthi was absent," said Rongpol Charoenphan, the cabinet secretary whose job it is to organize the nation's most important political meetings. "He asked his aide to inform everyone at the meeting that he was busy in the south."

Actually, Sonthi Boonyaratglin, the chief of the army, was busy organizing a coup d'état that he would begin 14 hours later, sending tanks into the streets and rescinding, with nothing more than a televised announcement, the country's Constitution and dissolving its Parliament.

On Thursday, Sonthi sought to strengthen the grip of his junta, banning political gatherings and "activities," and summoning media executives to army headquarters in Bangkok to warn them against publishing "expressions of public opinion" - an allusion to opinion polls but perhaps also encompassing media commentaries. The junta then summoned and detained four of Thaksin's closest political allies, without disclosing why.

Thaksin, meanwhile, issued a statement from London, saying that he would take a "well-deserved rest" and that he hoped for national reconciliation. He was spotted by reporters strolling around London on a sunny late-summer day.

Three days after the military carried out its first coup here in 15 years, many questions remained about how it will carry out its stated desire to return democracy to Thailand, a country that before a political crisis erupted in January was a sort of beacon of democracy for its neighbors.

But a more immediate question was what will happen to Thaksin and his fortune of more than $2 billion. The media here speculated Thursday that, to appear more legitimate in the eyes of foreign governments, the junta would open investigations against Thaksin. Sonthi cited "rampant corruption" as one of the reasons for the coup.

In a surprise move, the junta retained the country's auditor general, Jaruvan Maintaka, whom Thaksin had tried to remove from office. The military gave her more power to investigate government corruption.

Thaksin was in New York when the army took over. One of his closest advisers said he planned to stay in Europe for the foreseeable future.

"We won't just stay in London. We will probably go to Europe to have a rest," Pansak Vinyaratn, chief policy adviser to Thaksin, said by telephone from London.

But the question of his money is more complicated. One of Thailand's richest men, Thaksin made his fortune in the technology business, initially by selling IBM computers to the police force.

He cashed out of his business empire in January, selling his controlling stake of Shin Corp. - a conglomerate consisting of the country's leading mobile phone service, a low-cost airline and satellite businesses - to an investment company owned by the government of Singapore.

The sale netted $1.9 billion for his family, an amount so large that the Thai baht appreciated against the dollar as the money was being brought into the country.

In a news briefing Wednesday, the leaders of the junta said that there were no plans to freeze Thaksin's assets but that investigations were possible.

"It depends on the information we have at hand," Kowit Wattana, the country's national police chief, said at the briefing. "At present, he already has many lawsuits, so we might look into them again and see what to do."

If Thaksin's fortune is indeed still in Thailand, it is not clear how he could move the money abroad, since the central bank limits personal remittances to $1 million a year per person. At that rate it would take 1,900 years to transfer Thaksin's windfall from earlier this year out of the country.

Special permission is required for sums larger than $1 million. If the money is for investment purposes, however, an individual is allowed to wire $10 million without central bank permission.

Vichit Supinij, a former governor of the central bank and a former adviser to the Thaksin government, said he believed Thaksin's fortune was still in Thailand.

"The money is probably still in the banks at the moment," Vichit said. Getting it out of the country would be tricky, he said.

"It's true that if the amount of the transfer is less than $10 million, there's no need to inform the central bank," said Vichit, chairman of the board of the Stock Exchange of Thailand. "But you still have to inform your bank about the reasons for the transfer and where the money is going. Transferring such a huge amount of money is complicated."

Also complicated would be any investigation of Thaksin, said Klanarong Chantik, the former head of the National Countercorruption Commission.

"The current situation isn't normal," he said. "All the laws were revoked and the committee of the National Countercorruption Commission no longer exists."

Referring to the junta by the name it has chosen for itself, the Administrative Reform Council, he said: "The problem is everything now depends on the council's interpretation of the law."

Klanarong represented the Countercorruption Commission before the Constitution Court in 2001 when Thaksin was charged with dodging conflict-of-interest laws by transferring shares of Shin Corp. to his relatives, his driver and his maid. Thaksin was acquitted in an 8-to-7 ruling by the court.

The act governing the country's anti- corruption commission was part of the Constitution, and the Constitution has been rescinded, Klanarong said.

"Right now, the council is the law," he said.

The junta said Thursday that it had assumed legislative powers in the absence of Parliament. Its members gave themselves the power to approve "laws requiring action by members of Parliament and the Senate."

If an investigation does go forward, it will probably center on allegations of corruption in the purchase of U.S. bomb detectors for Bangkok's new airport or allegations of improprieties in the sale of Thaksin's Shin Corp., a transaction that the Finance Ministry ruled at the time could proceed tax-free.

Jon Ungpakorn, a member of the now-defunct Senate, said the junta should not focus on allegations of financial misdeeds.

"Issues that Thaksin himself needs to be investigated about are more issues related to the Constitution and human rights," Jon said.

He mentioned the extrajudicial killings of drug dealers by the police during over the last few years and the deaths of suspected Muslim separatists in southern Thailand.

"But of course these are fairly difficult to investigate," Jon said.

Uamdao Noikorn contributed reporting.

BANGKOK The first signs of trouble Tuesday emerged when Thaksin Shinawatra, who was still Thailand's leader, called an early-morning teleconference with the country's top army general.

The general did not show up.

"Sonthi was absent," said Rongpol Charoenphan, the cabinet secretary whose job it is to organize the nation's most important political meetings. "He asked his aide to inform everyone at the meeting that he was busy in the south."

Actually, Sonthi Boonyaratglin, the chief of the army, was busy organizing a coup d'état that he would begin 14 hours later, sending tanks into the streets and rescinding, with nothing more than a televised announcement, the country's Constitution and dissolving its Parliament.

On Thursday, Sonthi sought to strengthen the grip of his junta, banning political gatherings and "activities," and summoning media executives to army headquarters in Bangkok to warn them against publishing "expressions of public opinion" - an allusion to opinion polls but perhaps also encompassing media commentaries. The junta then summoned and detained four of Thaksin's closest political allies, without disclosing why.

Thaksin, meanwhile, issued a statement from London, saying that he would take a "well-deserved rest" and that he hoped for national reconciliation. He was spotted by reporters strolling around London on a sunny late-summer day.

Three days after the military carried out its first coup here in 15 years, many questions remained about how it will carry out its stated desire to return democracy to Thailand, a country that before a political crisis erupted in January was a sort of beacon of democracy for its neighbors.

But a more immediate question was what will happen to Thaksin and his fortune of more than $2 billion. The media here speculated Thursday that, to appear more legitimate in the eyes of foreign governments, the junta would open investigations against Thaksin. Sonthi cited "rampant corruption" as one of the reasons for the coup.

In a surprise move, the junta retained the country's auditor general, Jaruvan Maintaka, whom Thaksin had tried to remove from office. The military gave her more power to investigate government corruption.

Thaksin was in New York when the army took over. One of his closest advisers said he planned to stay in Europe for the foreseeable future.

"We won't just stay in London. We will probably go to Europe to have a rest," Pansak Vinyaratn, chief policy adviser to Thaksin, said by telephone from London.

But the question of his money is more complicated. One of Thailand's richest men, Thaksin made his fortune in the technology business, initially by selling IBM computers to the police force.

He cashed out of his business empire in January, selling his controlling stake of Shin Corp. - a conglomerate consisting of the country's leading mobile phone service, a low-cost airline and satellite businesses - to an investment company owned by the government of Singapore.

The sale netted $1.9 billion for his family, an amount so large that the Thai baht appreciated against the dollar as the money was being brought into the country.

In a news briefing Wednesday, the leaders of the junta said that there were no plans to freeze Thaksin's assets but that investigations were possible.

"It depends on the information we have at hand," Kowit Wattana, the country's national police chief, said at the briefing. "At present, he already has many lawsuits, so we might look into them again and see what to do."

If Thaksin's fortune is indeed still in Thailand, it is not clear how he could move the money abroad, since the central bank limits personal remittances to $1 million a year per person. At that rate it would take 1,900 years to transfer Thaksin's windfall from earlier this year out of the country.

Special permission is required for sums larger than $1 million. If the money is for investment purposes, however, an individual is allowed to wire $10 million without central bank permission.

Vichit Supinij, a former governor of the central bank and a former adviser to the Thaksin government, said he believed Thaksin's fortune was still in Thailand.

"The money is probably still in the banks at the moment," Vichit said. Getting it out of the country would be tricky, he said.

"It's true that if the amount of the transfer is less than $10 million, there's no need to inform the central bank," said Vichit, chairman of the board of the Stock Exchange of Thailand. "But you still have to inform your bank about the reasons for the transfer and where the money is going. Transferring such a huge amount of money is complicated."

Also complicated would be any investigation of Thaksin, said Klanarong Chantik, the former head of the National Countercorruption Commission.

"The current situation isn't normal," he said. "All the laws were revoked and the committee of the National Countercorruption Commission no longer exists."

Referring to the junta by the name it has chosen for itself, the Administrative Reform Council, he said: "The problem is everything now depends on the council's interpretation of the law."

Klanarong represented the Countercorruption Commission before the Constitution Court in 2001 when Thaksin was charged with dodging conflict-of-interest laws by transferring shares of Shin Corp. to his relatives, his driver and his maid. Thaksin was acquitted in an 8-to-7 ruling by the court.

The act governing the country's anti- corruption commission was part of the Constitution, and the Constitution has been rescinded, Klanarong said.

"Right now, the council is the law," he said.

The junta said Thursday that it had assumed legislative powers in the absence of Parliament. Its members gave themselves the power to approve "laws requiring action by members of Parliament and the Senate."

If an investigation does go forward, it will probably center on allegations of corruption in the purchase of U.S. bomb detectors for Bangkok's new airport or allegations of improprieties in the sale of Thaksin's Shin Corp., a transaction that the Finance Ministry ruled at the time could proceed tax-free.

Jon Ungpakorn, a member of the now-defunct Senate, said the junta should not focus on allegations of financial misdeeds.

"Issues that Thaksin himself needs to be investigated about are more issues related to the Constitution and human rights," Jon said.

He mentioned the extrajudicial killings of drug dealers by the police during over the last few years and the deaths of suspected Muslim separatists in southern Thailand.

"But of course these are fairly difficult to investigate," Jon said.

Uamdao Noikorn contributed reporting. Copyright 2006 International Herald Tribune (www.iht.com)

September 20, 2006

Leaders of Thai Coup Act to Consolidate Control

By THOMAS FULLER, International Herald Tribune

BANGKOK, Wednesday, Sept. 20 — The group of military officers that overthrew Thailand's government sought to consolidate its control today, banning public gatherings, threatening to shut down or block telecommunications and urging "farmers and laborers" — many of whom are strong supporters of the ousted government — to stay out of politics.

Gen. Sondhi Boonyaratkalin, the coup leader and chief of the army, addressed the public for the first time since seizing power in a bloodless takeover that began Tuesday night. He vowed to eventually restore democracy to Thailand's 65 million citizens but did not give any time frame.

The coup thrust Thailand, a country that hosts more than 11 million tourists and has an open, thriving economy, into further political uncertainty after 7 months of turmoil during which a political battle raged between supporters and detractors of Thaksin Shinawatra, the billionaire tycoon turned populist prime minister.

Mr. Thaksin was in New York when tanks rolled into the streets and television stations were seized by the military.

"The Administrative Reform Council, which has his Majesty the King as its leader, seized administrative power from the caretaker government by ordering the dissolution of the House of Representatives, the Senate, the government and the Constitutional Court," General Sondhi said.

The group did not repeat an assertion made by a spokesman Tuesday night that it had rescinded Thailand's constitution, but it was unclear if its position had changed.

General Sondhi vowed that military rule would be temporary. The military, he said, "insists that it has no intention to become the country's ruler and will return to democracy under the monarchy to the Thai people as soon as possible."

In reading the statement on national television, General Sondhi was flanked at a long table by the country's top military brass: Marshall Chalit Pookpasuk, the head of the air force, Admiral Sathiraphan Keyanand, the head of the marines and navy, Pol. Gen. Kowit Wattana, the national chief of police, and Gen. Ruangroj Mahasaranond, the supreme military commander.

Banks, government offices, the stock market, schools and some businesses were closed today after the coup's leaders declared a national holiday. Traffic was relatively light in Bangkok and soldiers were stationed at some intersections. Tanks that had moved to positions outside the prime minister's office Tuesday night were still stationed there Wednesday morning.

In his address, which lasted no more than two minutes, General Sondhi said the reason for seizing power was the "government's misconduct, which has caused conflicts and broken the unity of the people in the country in a way that has never happened before in the history of Thailand."

Mr. Thaksin's main deputy, Chidchai Vanasatidya, was reported to be in army custody.

Mr. Thaksin's position had been tenuous since February, when he dissolved parliament in the face of mounting protests in Bangkok over the tax-free, $1.9 billion sale of his family's business empire to the investment arm of Singapore's government. He stepped down in April after inconclusive elections that were boycotted by the opposition. But he remained the interim prime minister and was cagey on whether he would keep the job after fresh elections, which were likely to take place before the end of the year. His party, Thai Rak Thai, with overwhelming support in the country's rice-growing northeastern heartland, would have almost certainly won the elections, most political analysts believe.

Tuesday's coup appeared to have the blessing of Thailand's highly revered king, Bhumibol Adulyadej, who has been on the throne for 60 years. Overnight, Thai television showed General Sondhi meeting with Mr. Bhumibol. Political analysts believe the king has been worried that Mr. Thaksin's administration had accumulated too much power. Soldiers in the streets of Bangkok on Tuesday and Wednesday tied yellow ribbons to their uniforms and weapons, the color symbolizing support for the king.

The military issued a string of decrees this morning following General Sondhi's television appearance, including the ban on public gatherings.

"In order to avoid problems, the Administrative Reform Council prohibits political gatherings of more than five people," said Thavinand Krongkrang, a news anchorwoman on Channel 5, a station owned by the military. Violators would be jailed six months or fined.

Another announcement called on the media "to cover news truthfully and constructively in order to promote unity in the country."

The military also ordered the ministry of telecommunications "to control, stop or block the distribution of information through all media channels that might affect the council's work." It was referring to the Administrative Reform Council, the newly formed junta.

The military singled out several groups in Thai society — laborers, farmers and students — and conveyed messages to them, urging laborers and farmers "to remain peaceful because any gathering or movement right now might facilitate the work of people with bad intentions to cause disturbance."

It encouraged students to participate in the process of rebuilding Thai democracy.

"Any of you who has an idea or any opinion please send your ideas or suggestions to the army," a spokesperson said in one of the televised statements.

Recent Thai history is littered with coups, counter-coups and attempted coups, but this is the first military takeover since 1991, when Suchinda Kraprayoon, a military general, toppled a civilian government in a bloodless coup. His government was unpopular and he was ousted in 1992, following street demonstrations.

Thai Military Vows Clean-Up

Thai military leader vows to clean up politics and return power to the people
(Filed: 20/09/2006)

Leaders of the bloodless coup in Thailand have vowed to clean up politics as they tightened their control of the southeast Asian nation today.

In a broadcast on Thai television, General Sondhi Boonyaratklin said the army had seized power to unify the country, and accused Thaksin Shinawatra, the ousted prime minister, of corruption and nepotism.

The coup leader also accused the prime minister of causing an "erosion of democratic institutions" and an "unprecedented rift in society".

Gen Boonyaratklin said that the newly created Council of Administrative Reform had no intention of ruling the country, and wished to return power to the Thai people "as soon as possible".

This morning, however, the coup leaders moved to censor foreign and domestic media and banned public gatherings of more than five people as part of measures designed to ensure public order.

Foreign leaders have expressed concern over the developments in Thailand and some warned their citizens against travelling to one of Asia's most popular holiday destinations.

Margaret Beckett, the Foreign Secretary, told reporters in New York that she was "never happy about military attempts to overthrow a government," but she added that details of the coup were still unclear, making it difficult to comment.

Indonesia's Foreign Minister Hasan Wirayuda, also in New York for the UN General Assembly, said he hoped that the political crisis in Thailand could be settled through democratic means, a sentiment expressed by many leaders.

Today Thailand's prime minister is preparing to leave the United States for an uncertain future, after having watched his downfall in a military coup on television in New York. His destination is unknown.

Frontpage of Bangkok Post

'Coup' sparks Thailand emergency

'Coup' sparks Thailand emergency

Thai Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra has declared a state of emergency in Bangkok amid reports of a coup attempt.
BBC

Soldiers have entered Government House and tanks have moved into position around the building.

Mr Thaksin, who is at the UN in New York, said he had removed the chief of the army.

National television announced that forces had taken control of Bangkok "to maintain law and order", and that they were declaring loyalty to the king.

However, the BBC's Kate McGeown in Bangkok says King Bhumibol is held in high esteem by all Thais, and the declaration of loyalty does not necessarily imply that he backs the takeover attempt.

An army-owned TV station is showing images of the royal family and songs linked in the past with military coups.

The announcement said the troops belonged to the "Council of Political Reform".

BBC World, CNN and other international news channels have been taken off the air, readers in Thailand told the BBC News website by email.

Our correspondent says low-level rumours of a possible coup have been circulating for weeks.

Thai media say that two army factions appear to be heading for a clash, with one side backing the prime minister and the other side backing military commander Lieutenant General Sonthi Boonyaratglin.

The general was sacked by the prime minister earlier in the day.

Political impasse

Our correspondent Jonathan Head said it was not clear which faction had taken the initiative and moved into Government House.

He said there has been pressure growing on the prime minister to resign, including groups close to King Bhumibol, following a political impasse in which April's general election was declared invalid.

But it was thought that Thailand was making progress towards holding another election later in the year, our correspondent says.

Witnesses said several hundred troops were posted at key points around Bangkok, including at government installations and major intersections.

Russell Miles emailed the BBC News website to say there were troops "dressed in Swat-style gear strolling around" near Government House, and "a tense, but fairly controlled atmosphere".

He said: "We saw a group of blokes bundling a cameraman and another chap into a van. We are taking photos, but not out in the open."

At the United Nations, where the annual General Assembly is under way, it was announced that the agenda had been changed to allow Mr Thaksin to address it in the coming hours.